Traveling Vietnamese busses and Trains

Traveling in Vietnamese busses has a special thrill to it. Even though roads are broad a bus is sharing it with cars, trucks, motorbikes, bicycles, pedestrians, Vietnamese women selling bread and farmers drying their rice. So driving here requires a high amount if patients that drivers lack in general. Common behavior therefore is: make use if your horn, speed up and overtake whatever is in the way on the left side.

A special case are the numerous sleeper busses for tourist that connect the big cities. The beds that are arranged in three rows are framed in metal making the fact that they are to tiny for a standard European especially painful.
The "metal" class of vietnamese sleeping busses.

The „metal“ class of vietnamese sleeping busses.

Traveling by train is one of the scenic travel options because the tracks go partly along the coast and 30 km/h leave a lot of time to enjoy the view. Entering the train is also a travel back in time since system was build in French colonial times and hardly modernized since.
The wooden class in vietnamese trains.

The wooden class in vietnamese trains.

By far our travel favorite in Vietnam was a wooden ferry with a high speed of 12km/h.

Lessons learned about Vietnam

1. That you can’t get proper coffee in Southeast Asia is definitely not true for Vietnam. French people left a liking for baguette and coffee in the Vietnamese society when they left. However, the typical coffee differs somewhat from the  European version. Coffee is only roughly grinded put into a metal filter above a small glass containing sweetened condense milk and a little hot water is added. After a while ca. 20 ml strong coffee are in your glass. You might now optional add ice cubes to cool the coffee down. Sounds weird but is very delicious.
The coffee is in the filter above and needs the good part of five minutes to end up in the glass where it is mixed with sweet concentrated milk and ice.

The coffee is in the filter above and needs the good part of five minutes to end up in the glass where it is mixed with sweet concentrated milk and ice.

2. Vietnamese men are heavy smokers. Meaning they don’t just carry a pack of cigarets, but tobacco and a bong like pipe around. (Unfortunately the guy didn’t wanted me to take a picture of him.)
3. Vietnamese seem to be immune to noise. There are horning Motorbikes at the street, screaming „hähnchen“ next to your hotel window, and defending music (both from passenger radios and loudspeakers) in long distance trains.
4. Walking is a abandoned concept in Vietnamese cities. Absolutely everybody ones a scooter, maybe an electro scooter or bike when they are still I school age. That’s exactly how traffic works and pedestrian lanes work. Stepping on the street is dangerous because somebody could run over you at any time, but walking in pedestrian lanes does not work either because they are occupied by parking scooters and little street restaurants.
Tried to capture the craziness, but you know a picture can never tell the whole story.

Tried to capture the craziness, but you know a picture can never tell the whole story.

5. Supermarkets are a rare phenomenon in Vietnam. In the touristic centers you can be lucky to find small kiosks selling alcohol and snacks. Fruits, vegetables, meat, fish and bread are bought in markets water, milk and cookies in small out of the door shops, so better know the prices.

Mui Ne – riding up wind

 

The sea of fisher boats, seen from the Mui Ne city perspective.

The sea of fisher boats, seen from the Mui Ne city perspective.

Mui Ne the small fisher village at the turned into a more or less big resort within the last years. Actually Mui Ne is still the little fisher village but the 20 km road aside the beach leading to Mui Ne are filled resorts, little hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, souvenir and vodka shops. Most of them are russian owned hence you get approached in russian all the time, vodka bottles lay around, and restaurants have menu cards written in cyrilic letters. Yeah, nobody really likes them here (I was offered a box if beer, if I knock over a russian surfer) but most earn their money from them.

I kind of imagined the beach to be broader.

I kind of imagined the beach to be broader.

Mui Ne beach deserves a chapter in it self. The first time we entered this famous beach I was chocked by it’s size, because it is hardly present at most places. Only the part of the more „fancy“ Hotels would actually count as a beach (they shuffle the sand back every year, that is otherwise just washed away). The resorts closer to Mui Ne city use a different strategy. The just builded a concrete wave breaker directly in front of their ground the prevent the waves of washing away the whole hotel. This area is not really inviting for sunbathing anyway, because you have to share the limited space with everything that is wash onshore as well, like fisher nets, jelly fish, dead dogs and of course the tons of garbage (You can imagine that my beach stroll wasn’t that enjoyable).
Anyway, the fisher boats really look lovely spread out on the beach.

Anyway, the fisher boats really look lovely spread out on the beach.

Despite everything we made this place our home for almost two weeks. We found a small hotel at the waterside charging us 12$ for a room without air condition (A fan was more than enough for good sleeping conditions). Our favourite place for the tasty iced coffee, fresh made fruit juice and vienamese curry was found to be just around the corner and the small booth in front made some very delicious sandwiches (we visited „our friend“ at least once per day). And the main reason for us staying here such a long time, the kite surfing school was only a 15 min walk away.
It's not a house but at least a room at the sea side beach.

It’s not a house but at least a room at the sea side beach.

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When you see these signs, stop for a coffee, a fresh pressed juice or even dinner. Everything is great.

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After two days we were her „friends“ and kept buying her sandwiches until the last day.

To learn how to kite surf was what brought us to Mui Ne. During our stroll down the beach we were also confirmed that this must be the place for it based on the uncountable number of kite schools on the beach and kites on the water. The problem is just what to choose, when you don’t know what to go for. We stopped our attempted at the first school at the question: „Are the teachers insured?“ and got the answer: „No problem. Nothing can happen. It’s safe.“ Hmm sure. The second school made advertisement whit a monkey chained to a bench in front. I am not really sure, that this advertisement is a convincing one. So we ended up with Windchimes, it’s owner Mr. Trang, and Oli our teacher (being from Germany made me kind of feel safer).
Windchimes kite school, if you don't find it, Mr. Trang will find you.

Windchimes kite school, if you don’t find it, Mr. Trang will find you.

And here he is. The ever talkative Mr. Trang. According to his stories, he was the first to open a kite school in Mui Ne. soso

And here he is. The ever talkative Mr. Trang. According to his stories, he was the first to open a kite school in Mui Ne. soso

The hard fate of being a kite surf teacher. Working for 3 h a day, leaves a lot of time to spend on the cushions.

The hard fate of being a kite surf teacher. Working for 3 h a day, leaves a lot of time to spend on the cushions.

Surprisingly I found Kite surfing to be easier than expected (anyway afraid of the power of this piece of fabric) and pushed myself into going into the water despite the fact that I don’t like open sea. After the total of seven days Tom can claim to be able to kite surf (defined as having the kite under control, getting onto the board and manoeuvring the whole construct not only downwind but also against the wind back to the starting point). About me? I guess I will never be good friend with the sea. On my fifth day I was completely knocked out by food poisoning (that I probably got from swallowing to much seawater contaminated with dead dog). When I finally got back and almost managed to get me, the kite and the board into surfing conditions, I was hit by a jellyfish turning my food into something very painful, red and swollen and send me off to the hospital. I guess, I better try again in safe lake water at home ;).
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Tom – kite surfing.

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Me – almost kite surfing.

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Me knocked out by the bad bacs. Was only funny afterwards.

But I got two nice reasons to enjoy Mui Ne without kite surfing. Melli and Kolja, who by coincidence spent their vacation in Vietnam and were in Mui Ne at the same time as we. Aside from having nice dinner and a couple of beers together I also had the possibility to do some „sightseeing“ with them. We went to the see the red stream coloured by the iron containing sand, got peeled in the with sand dunes (a lot of wind is great for surfing but pushes desert sand deep into your pores), and missed the sun set in the red sand dunes.
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Boys at work … ah I misunderstood something.

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Melli, Kolja, the sand dunes and a lot of wind.

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If it hadn’t been for the clouds we could have enjoyed at least five minutes of sunset.

The day we headed to Saigon, we were actually a little sad to leave our little home.

Phan Rang city – and the bus driver started laughing

Going by Train From Danang we stopped in Nha Trang (the beach and party location in Vietnam) for one night. And it is exactly what is stated and we were happy to head on the next day.

The cozy beach of PhanRang. Except from a few Russians you only met curious locals here.

The cozy beach of PhanRang. Except from a few Russians you only met curious locals here.

Our idea of kite surfing lead us to Phan Rang. Conditions there were supposed to be better than in Mui Ne and a kite school should be located at the Beach. When our bus arrived in Phan Rang the driver announced „Phan Rang city“ looked at us and started laughing. Obviously wondering what two backpacker wanted in this small industrial city. We headed for a small Guesthouse close to the beach (taxi driver kept a generous tipp when we could pay they exact amount).
There really isn’t much to this place, but two sweet landlords, a 6km long beach with a hundreds of tiny round fisher boats, a little cafe with great coffee and hammocks and a old lady preparing great spicy omelet in bread in a mobile kitchen. Oh and a few russian tourists. Unfortunately there was no kite school to be found otherwise we would have loved to stay for a couple more days.
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What to do, when there is nothing to do but to relax.

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The only place that also served something else than seafood.

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Toms little new friends – crab is called Tom in Vietnamese. Wonder we he likes them so much.

The roads of Danang

The most modern skyline of Vietnam - Danang

The most modern skyline of Vietnam – Danang. I admit it’s hard to see on this picture.

The actual reason we stopped in Danang was the Vietnam Special of BBC’s show ‚Top Gear‘. Jeremy, James and the Hamster end up driving motorbikes through Vietnam over what they say one of the most beautiful passes. And this special one is close to Danang and needed of cause also be explored by Tom via a motorbike. Whether it is great for driving is not me to judge but the view over Danang is very nice.

The ocean cloud pass not only deserves it names it also provides some crazy road design to have fun on a motorbike.

The ocean cloud pass not only deserves it names it also provides some crazy road design to have fun on a motorbike.

While in the possession of a motorbike we decided to also make a little tour to Hoi An. Stopping at the beach, having fresh but expensive fish while viewing the fisher man and get scammed  for fixing a flat tire – but what to do in the middle of nowhere.
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The spherical fisher boats of south Vietnam. We assume they are so round so they are not affected by wave independent of the position in the sea.

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If you don’t have a boat – simply fish at the beach, or collect some crabs.

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As if I asked them to pose for the picture :).

Hoi An felt a bit like Pingyao in Vietnamese. A village of beautiful though neglected colonial buildings, touts and many western tourists. If anybody (I just can think of one Danish manager.) needs to learn to say ’no‘ the touts here definitely will teach you this lesson or you will end up bank robed.
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New paint would definitely destroy the historic charm of the colonial buildings.

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The touts hidden as nice old ladies in fisher boats wait at the promenade pier to catch a few dollars from the western tourists. Anyway it gives such a lovely picture.

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Aside from the old center of Hoi An with it;s many boutiques this little city remains a fisher village. You just have to go around the corner.

In Danang we learned about a typical dish if this region. Roasted chicken with rice. The tiny street restaurant we went to did such a good job that we had dinner there twice.
I am not a fan of making pictures of food, but when you come across roasted chicken with rice I want you to be able to recognise it. Yummy

I am not a fan of making pictures of food, but when you come across roasted chicken with rice I want you to be able to recognise it. Yummy

The graves of Hue

After two long days of travel we arrived in Hue in the middle of the night in heavy rain. Luckily the welcome to the lovely Jade Hotel was much more welcoming. Hue it turned out has a special micro clima dominated by heavy rain. The next two days it started raining exactly 10 min to 1 pm. The first day it was only short and we could simply wait until it stopped the second day it was raining dogs for hours. Luckily cabs are quite cheap in Vietnam.

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Being on watch in front of Khải Äịnh tomb. They remember somehow at the terracotta warriors in Xian.

Besides the very wet weather conditions Hue is known for its high number richly lay out royal tombs. When kings became a mainly decorative function during French colonial ruling many of them got bored and they started creating enormous tombs for themselves. We visited two and were impressed by their beautiful way of using recycled material.
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The Decoration in the Khải Äịnh tomb reuses all kind of ceramic and glass to create beautiful wall pictures ….

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… and typical dragon layouts.

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The Minh Mạng tomb is impressing in a more quitter and spacious green way.

And if you need some time off the chaotic and noisy street life and ever shouting touts visit the forbidden purple city. Though only fractional restored after two wars it’s very lovely and quite.
The restored part of the forbidden city contrast significantly with the grey overgrown stones left over from two wars.

The restored part of the forbidden city contrast significantly with the grey overgrown stones left over from two wars.

And on top of all this the food in this area is a lot spicier. 🙂
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Preparation of a typical spicy noodle soup of this area. The dough is simply chopped from a piece of plastic tube into the boiling water.

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I guess we will never escape Carlsberg. Local vietnamese beer brewed by danish technology.

Halong bay and it’s cones

Halong Bay from it's fishery and peaceful side.

Halong Bay from it’s fishery and peaceful side.

Halong Bay or Guilin and sea as some call it is located a little northeast of Hanoi. Most people going here book a Tour including sleeping on a boat, going Kayaking, and swimming in the bay. Somehow we missed out that this would be a possibility. We arranged a shuttle bus from our Hostel to Halong city and found our self with 15 hangover twenagers in a little tour bus. In Halong bay they entered the boat and left us with the trouble finding out where the ferry would be leaving the next day (definitely not where the tourists boats start). Even though the extremely cheap hotel we were staying with in Halong city did not provide any kind if service the owner was willing to rent us a motorbike. For Tom the best fun in days, for me a constant cause of fear, because a) the traffic in this country is crazy, b) it’s actually illegal judged with 2 years prison and c) the insurance would not cover the costs in a case of an accident. Anyway, it is a great way to explore the country taking you further than foods (the harbour for the Ferry to Quan Lan was 7 km from the hotel) and it is pretty fun.

Tom on his new favourite mode of transport. The helmets are actually only for not getting a fine than for protection.

Tom on his new favourite mode of transport. The helmets are actually only for not getting a fine than for protection.

Quan Lan is an island far off from the touristic buzz in Halong bay, with all it’s advantages and drawbacks. Though the room in our Hotel was nice and cheap, we felt constantly in the way of the owner as his only guests. The restaurant served very good seafood (my very first time picking fish from its bones with chopsticks), but as there were only few options you just had to pay the price.
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Quan Lan market (three stands) just next to the drivers licence checking place on the ground of a historic building of some kind.

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They do have some cheerful cemeteries here.

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A historic building of some kind looking so in place in Quan Lan city.

The big attraction of the island is a white beach, that did not felt lonely but deserted with half rotten bamboo huts splattered along the shore.
Looking not to battered when slightly out of focus.

Minh Chin beach looking not to battered when slightly out of focus.

However, we also found our lonely beach, just a km from there. And many people look up and greet you friendly when you bike by their houses (just a few kids throughing shoes on us probably in the believe we were Americans).
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Aren’t they cute? Kept like the chickens, to be eaten like chickens just prepared in a different way.

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Hanging out on our privat beach.

On our way back we opt for the slower boat taking a more indirect route and should not regret it. The boat was a very lovely wooden ferry passing slowly through cast mountains and along swimming fisher villages leaving us all the time to admire them.
The little fisher villages cuddling to the rocky stones.

The little fisher villages cuddling to the rocky stones.

Hanoi – the perfectly normal insanity

The view of Vietnam - cone hats all over.

The view of Vietnam – cone hats all over.

Was what I thought whenever we stepped outside. 7 mio. people are living in Hanoi and 4 Mio. of them own a motorbike. What ever I said about eloctro scooter in China, it’s nothing compared. As far as I could see there are only two rules: 1. Everyone on a motorbike has to wear a helmet and 2. anything can hit you from any direction at any time.

Tried to capture the craziness, but you know a picture can never tell the whole story.

Tried to capture the craziness, but you know a picture can never tell the whole story.

Traffic lights for pedestrians were generally switched off. When you want to cross the street hope for the motorbikes to drive around you or use a car as shield. Pedestrian lanes do exist, but are usually occupied by parking motorbikes or little plastic chairs leaving no option but to walk on the road. However, we saw not one single accident, even though loneyplanet states traffic is the most dangerous part if Vietnam.

There are even some that obey traffic rules. And one or two that jump over the queue.

There are even some that obey traffic rules. And one or two that jump over the queue.

We spend 1 1/2 days in Hanoi walking through streets the old and the French quarter, Watching morning aerobic to salsa rhythms and students posing with the graduation certificate at the first national university of Vietnam (about 1000 years old) and eating the traditional Pho (noodle soup with beef or chicken).
Stundents in the temple of literature (or the first University of Vietnam) released from the photo shooting.

Stundents in the temple of literature (or the first University of Vietnam) released from the photo shooting.