A boat trip on lake Powell or how to die in the Utah desert

In the 1950’s somebody had the great idea to build the Glen Canyon dam and collect thousands of cubic meters of water rushing in from the the Colorado River into the Glen Canyon. It took 11 years to fill the Glen Canyon to it’s high water mark (the white colouring of the red sandstone walls that you see on the pictures) now being one of the most outstanding landmarks at the boarder between Utah and Arizona.

It's a crazy landscape. 300 feet water below and 300 sandstone above.

It’s a crazy landscape. 300 feet water below and 300 sandstone above. Dead tree trunks testify that this wasn’t always the case.

Tom decided to trade floating in a boat for some solitude time in the Rocky Mountains. Santos had to work. So with tents, bathing suits, a cooler filled with wine and beer and two bags of snacks Jen and me boarded Nicks Pickup and we were on our way to lake Powell in south Utah. I got a warning that we will travel with dogs, which however didn’t prepare me for Nikita, Sage, and Patina which were going to be a quite entertaining part of the trip. The three dogs were in the bigger end of the scale and very skilled in taking up every space you would allow them, resulting in a car ride were I frequently had a dog head or ass in my lap (not to talk about old Nikita’s gas problems).

Traveling with three dogs in a Pickup is surely one of my more unusual experiences.

Traveling with three dogs in a Pickup is surely one of my more rare experiences.

We arrived after a five hours drive. When all our stuff was stored on the very spacey pontoon boat we headed out to find a camping spot. We found a flat beach in iceberg canyon which should become a quite significant choice during the coming days.
Nothing looking like icebergs in Iceberg Canyon - yet.

Nothing looking like icebergs in Iceberg Canyon – yet.

As Nick stated the dam was on of the greatest idiocies done in south Utah but it led to some of the most outstanding landscapes. 500-600 feet canyons of red sandstones are filled halfway with greenish blue water mesmerizing you while cruising through the narrow channels. If you are tired of cruising you can stop and climb up a wall of sandstone, hike into the dry ends if canyons, check out alcoves and arches, soak in the warm water or just hang out on the boat and enjoy your drink.
This is a very different way of enjoying great landscape compared to our usual hiking trips.

This is a very different way of enjoying great landscape compared to our usual hiking trips.

Our neighbours were even more professional in using existing circumstances for recreation.

Our neighbours were even more professional in using existing circumstances for recreation.

But I find to use rubber duck as floating devices for cocktails pretty great too.

But I find to use rubber duck as floating devices for cocktails pretty great too.

We managed to spent approximately 1.5 days with these very common activities while the other 2.5 days were dominated by trying to survive a little hurricane passing by lake Powell. Luckily Nick and Audra just got what we would call a glass house for their boat, so we could sit in the relatively safety and dryness watching the rain, the occurrence of waterfalls, and flash floods passing by.
At the evening if our second day just after we arrived back from a little kayak exploration the wind picked up dramatically, flipping over cooking tables, playing sail with the boat enclosure and flattening out our tents. Everything was over in about half an hour leaving a soaked Jen (trying to keep frying pans from flying away), one broken and several bend tent poles.

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Enjoying the sunny morning paddling and hiking flooded canyon arms …

... Sage liking of my sun cream ...

… Sage liking of my sun cream …

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… before the first storm and heavy rain …

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… forced us to to enjoy Nick’s and Audra’s new boat enclosure.

After the rain comes the sun and in a canyon: waterfalls. So we went hunting waterfalls by boat. This one was my favourite.

But after the rain comes the sun and in a canyon: waterfalls. So we went hunting waterfalls by boat. This one was my favourite.

And there is one more thing that I don't want to detain from. The first floating toilet that I ever saw in my life. Dammit smart.

So much running water, sometimes also reminds us of our needs. In that case just go for the floating toilet.

 The next day the mayor storm was supposed to be hit us so we used the sunny morning hours to hike up iceberg canyon exploring the huge cathedral alcove at its end. As we were to turn around we saw the black wall of clouds approach us and decided it might be a good idea to head back to the boat. It wasn’t just a good but the wisest decision.
You don't feel especially safe seeing this wall coming while hiking in a canyon.

You don’t feel especially safe seeing this wall coming while hiking in a canyon.

Securely equipped with drinks and food we watched the heavy rain starting off waterfalls around us until the rain turned to hail, the falls started draining enormous amounts of water and a flash flood of hail and wood rushed down the canyon that we just hiked. I didn’t really know what was going on but the three freaked out Americans indicated that this was an once in a life time and pretty dangerous experience. Nick shot some movies that even made it to the news. Thank god we picked a beach that hold up to the flood and the boat was properly secured so we watched the „show“ from with a relative comfort. Even the tents survived without any further damage.

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Ready for the show equipped with drinks and snacks. 

It's not about the tent but the drainage flushing into the canyon behind it.

It’s not about the tent but the drainage flushing into the canyon behind it.

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And the Iceberg Canyon changed into a a river of gooseberry big hail living up to it’s name.

When the flood finally slowed down we found our selves locked in the canyon by a feet high layer of hail bergs, so the rest of the day was spent hanging out on the boat and resuming what just happened. The irony of floating hail bergs around our camp was that the ice in our cooler melted rapidly and we were afraid the food would spoil, so we used the „good“ fortune to fill them with hail.
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Our way out was completely blocked by hail leaving us wondering with happened to the rest of lake Powell.

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Our neighbour tried to get through as well, but in the end spend 1 h in his boat waiting for the hail to melt a little just to come back to his camp. Shovelling his way out with a wake board was rather unsuccessful.

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Some freezing bags and a little hail worked wonder keeping our food and drinks cold.

Already the same evening conditions improved and the next day we could paddle our way out of wooden debris and cruise the canyons. But not enough with near death experience. Nick sent us climbing up a waterfall (after swimming through debris and foam of degrading organic material). We failed just about (getting cold in a pool at the feet of the waterfall we were not able the climb the fragile ladder of old rope). When we came back, our way was blocked by several screaming teenage girls so the best choice seemed to jump of the tiny cliff directly into the water in front of the boat. Audra cleared out the debris (Jen refused to jump on the floating cactus.) and I worked up all my courage and jumped. Cold and dripping back on the boat Audra pointed out an also very wet but very angry rattlesnake that hide under all the debris in the water making our hearts drop for a second (in worst circumstances the bit of a rattlesnake can be deadly).
So for the moment we were done with hiking around in water and longed for the comfort of a warm beach, which we should get and enjoy. After some more hiking in the evening we picked up one of Nicks friend who was hiking through the desert in these events and long and eventful day came to its end.
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Good that we had a net and a rake. The engine didn’t really liked the debris.

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My first time trying to climb a waterfall. I wasn’t quite aware off, that I would climb in the waterfall, when Nick proposed it.

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But being back in the sun it was warm enough again for the pool noodles.

First from above the real dimensions of this place become clear.

First from above the real dimensions of this place become clear.

The next day we packed up, cleaned up and started the long journey back to SLC.

But don't forget, no trip to Lake Powell is complete without a swim in Lake Powell.

But don’t forget, no trip to Lake Powell is complete without a swim in Lake Powell.

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