Traveling Busses in South America

The way to travel around South America are busses! You can fly, but it’s usually only affordable within one country, if at all. Interestingly bus fares and bus standards vary widely between countries even if you only take into account tourist busses.

The most important thing you have to learn is to distinguish the classes. There is standard: the usually uncomfortable cramped busses that you find all over Europe. Then there is semicama: giving you a bit more space for the legs and the possibility to lean back you seat by 140dg. Cama: gives you support for your legs and and seat that leans back 160dg (if you ever wanted to learn how business class in a plane feels, this is quite similar).
And the 180dg: it’s the same as cama but your leg support can be adjusted to 180dg.
Argentina has in general the highest standards with clean busses, working toilets that don’t spill their content on the street. Sometimes they even serve real food (all of it contains in some way ham and cheese) and wine. Anyway, you should ask for the food otherwise you can end up on a 24h journey very very hungry. The downside: they are also the most expensive ones.
Our steward (wearing a suit) on the bus from Bariloche to Mendoza.

Our steward (wearing a suit) on the bus from Bariloche to Mendoza.

When they tell you that you get food in Chile be prepared for orange juice and cookies and that’s it. In Bolivia they make it easy: no food. But here you can buy supplies and even a warm dish at every corner. And if they don’t serve you food in Peru they will let the street vendors in the bus selling everything from cheese, meat (chopped from the bone in the bus), jelly, juice, but no coffee :(.
Trying to get a closet into the bus in Peru.

Trying to get a closet into the bus in Peru.

What you have to cope with, when taking the not very touristic busses are the cultural differences most pronounced in Bolivia, where seats are in general stained, people eating rice and fried chicken from there lap and people using the curtains to clean their hands or even worse their noses. Anyway what we never ended up with (and people transport the weirdest stuff) were living animals, not even a pet.
And against the warnings of the German embassy and the constant lack of seat belts in Bolivia and Peru we only felt insecure once. On our last ride from Cusco to Lima the bus driver tried to get home early. Instead of 22h he only needed 19h, 12h of them in the middle of the night through narrow bends next to steep cliffs through the Andes. I rarely slept a minute on this overnight bus.
We also took the train twice but more about that in the articles about Potosi and MachuPicchu.

Lessons learned about South America

Many funny things we observed in south america don’t differ so much between the countries you will get the whole collection in one rush.

Chile and Argentina, both somewhat influenced by the europeans since a few centuries kind of similar. Both countries have an amazing landscape (we only saw Argentina’s close to the chilean boarder), produce good red wine (Argentina’s is a bit better) and speak a strange version of Spanish.

1. Chilean love sugar, so much that they even sell sugar light in supermarket to reduce calorie consumption.
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2. Chliean love color, especially in yoghurt. However the only seem to use one kind of color. Independent from the flavor all are bright pink.
3. There is no bargaining in Chile, not even on the markets. So you actual never feel cheated, but prices are higher than in the rest of South America.
4. Chilean don’t seem to have a sense of weight. While everybody tries to reduce weight while hiking, they even carry 1.4 kg heavy cookers around.
5. Steak is so popular in Argentina that the only kind of knives in Hostels are actual steak knives. It gave us a hard time to spread the butter on bread.
6. Argentines love their dulce de leche (some weird mix of caramelised milk and sugar) and put it into everything. I don’t like it but since it’s usually very brown I regularly misjudge it as chocolate.

I find it quite significant that the ice cream shop offers two kind of chocolate but four kind of dulce de leche ice cream.

I find it quite significant that the ice cream shop offers two kind of chocolate but four kind of dulce de leche ice cream.

7. Argentina is surprisingly expensive. Knowing about the unofficial dollar blue rate of 12.5 compared to the official 8.7 really saved us some money.
8. Argentines have a great relation to plastic bags. Every single person in the queue in front if me brought a fabric bag to carry their groceries home.
9. Siesta is still written in big letters in Argentina, causing two stupid looking persons in front of a supermarket more than once.
10. This is one for Nanna. Argentines are wild with Fernet, mostly Fernet Branca. They drink it for every occasion and mix it even with coke.
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11. We never figured out for which reason but ham and cheese are really popular ingredients in the Chilean and Argentina cuisine. You get it with the scrambled egg in the plan, on sandwiches, in empenadas, on top of what they call Milanesa (in principle Wiener Schnitzel) or just pure.

Yummy, cheese and ham in all kinds of variations.
12. Chileans knock on toilet doors. What a great habit, than just pushing down the toilet handle.
13. Surprisingly Argentina is the first country that really did something against plastic bags, so most people actually bring fabric bags for shopping. I like!
14. Despite the fact, that coffee is produced in south america they don’t really nurse a coffee culture. Most just dink freeze dried coffee with lots of sugar. but I kind of like the teabag version. Really handy in busses.
IMG_157515. Of course they love soccer and are so proud. Even the screens in underground stations allow you to keep track off the doing of your favourite team.
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Bolivia is so very different form Chile and Argentina. It’s characterised by the Andes (that maybe the european settlers just didn’t bother to cope with) and what they call the andean folk.

15. The andeans are very fond of highly colored sugary jellies which are selled everywhere.
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16. Andeans probably invented shawls for carrying baby’s. Even tough they have a different understanding of how the kid should be carried than Europeans.
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17. 60-70% of the inhabitants are indigenous and many especially women still practice the traditional clothing and hair style (long black braided plaits with some kind of deco).
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18. Quinoa, the superfood of the western world is what have been oats for us. A cereal with a high protein content but nothing special. Because nearly all is exported, nowadays the average Bolivian can’t afford to buy quinoa but is eating rice instead.
19. Working kids, on the streets, in the markets and even in the mines is a sight you have to cope with while traveling here.
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20. Plastic bags are also very famous here. They sell every kind of food in it. Juice to go comes with a straw. Food, like corn with rice and fried chicken is simply eaten directly from the bag with fingers. I even felt reminded of childhood when I found milk in plastic bags in the supermarket.
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Ladies selling snacks and juices to passengers at the bus station.

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21. Sometimes you get the impression time stood still for centuries in this country, when you observe the high technology used to get things done. But hey things like juice presses work and can easily be fixed with a wrench.
22. For what ever reason many Bolivians travel with blankets. Might be because if the constantly cold temperatures in places at 3500-4000m or simple the cheaper version of a sleeping bag.
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23. Bolivians are big fan of whatever pooped grain. On every market you will find several options and bags are sold for cents or in supersize me versions.
Popped corn delivery to a kiosk in Copacabana.

Popped corn delivery to a kiosk in Copacabana.

24. If you ever travel in Bolivian busses or Peruvian boats you should remember what Nr. 1 and Nr. 2 is. Both countries refer to pee whit Nr. 1 and to poo with Nr. 2.
25. Potatoes are vegetables! So when you order a Bolivian dish you will get meat, rice and vegetables (usually remind a lot of French fries).
In many ways the andean live in Peru is a lot like in Bolivia, even though they already know more about tourists (in good and bad ways) and their food is a lot better. But there are a few things we only found in this country.
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26. Chewing coca leaves and drinking coca tea is legal in Chile, Bolivien, Peru and Columbia and an integral part of the andean culture. We also had them due to their supposed effect against altitude symptoms. Hope we don’t get into any drug test soon 😉 (trace amounts of cocaine can be found in urine after chewing coca leaves).
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27. Transportation of nearly everything in busses is very popular. If they can, they even take dressers on board. In that case they couldn’t and had to leave it behind.
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28. I guess the lable „Inca“ equals good quality. At least they put it on everything. By the way Inca Cola was the only softdrink CocaCola could never compete with in Peru. So they simply bought the company.
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29. And if the peruvians can something than thats slides. They are huge and they are everywhere.
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Just the small backyard version.

Lima – somehow not Peru

After several weeks in the highlands of the Andes with the andean people we got a little climate and cultural shock leaving the bus in Lima (Happy that we survived the Andean serpentines taken with 70km/h at night!).

Tom trying to look like a westerner again.

Tom trying to look like a westerner again.

Lima was so different from what we expected. It was a pretty modern and big city offering everything a westerner could wish for. A beach (not the prettiest one) with waves for surfing, green parks with jogging people (though all around Lima we only saw desert), cafés (also the popular one with the green lady), bars (crowded and smoky), and of course big supermarkets that even sell german sausages.
Not only the western coffee culture found it's way into Peru's capitol.

Not only the western coffee culture found it’s way into Peru’s capitol.

We stayed in a hostel in Miraflores, you could also call it the Prenzl‘ Berg of Peru. Little luxurious villas, modern apartment houses and hip youngsters on skateboards. Unfortunately Miraflores is located 7km from the old city core and our hunt for rental bikes was very unsuccessful (no Wifi in the hostel to check upfront). We ended up walking the 7 km along busy roads not providing a single cafe with Wifi. Arrived in the city core we were so tired that we had to take the tourist bus to see all the important buildings, their balconies (Lima is also called the city of balcony due to its many colonial yeah well balconies.), and parks.
Lima's historical center is crowded with tourist. What else?

Lima’s historical center is crowded with tourist. What else?

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The smelling boarder between the historic and and the living Lima. Water is not really a resource they have enough off.

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The living Lima clearly is nothing that attracts as many tourists, maybe because the house walls are not as yellow and have less balconies.

I really don’t know, but Lima does not seen to me THE peruvian tourist city, but more a place were people really live and were you can easily fill your days with strolling along the pacific shore (maybe even surf of you dare) and eat good peruvian and international cusine.
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It’s becoming modern – it’s getting becoming BIO. You can get some really fancy stuff here, but we still prefer the typical markets.

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One guy in the hostel was a chief, preparing typical peruvian meat: guinea pig (peruvian: cuy).

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And he did a really good job.

MachuPicchu – you can’t go to Peru without going to MachuPicchu

So we went. I really like a citation from Tom „yeah it’s a lot of old stones, but you have to admit that the Incas really had a great taste for locations“.

MachuPicchu - Scientist believe it was kind of a resort for important Incas. I can understand that somehow.

MachuPicchu – Scientist believe it was kind of a resort for important Incas. I can understand that somehow.

They really had! We already found out when the minivan after a 8h journey from Cusco dropped us next to the old hydroelectric power plant from where you walk over train tracks to now officially MachuPicchu pueblo (formerly Aguas Calientes). The surrounding valley is characterized by very steep very green hills through which a torrential river is bitting its way (in 2010 the river rose that high that it was flooding Aguas Calientes and tourists had to be evacuated). After 3h (1h drizzle rain) we arrived in MachuPicchu pueblo, found a very affordable hotel, dinner and waited for the next day to come.
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The official foot path to MachuPicchu, as the sign indicates.

The next day started as was to be expected: rainy. So we first headed out around 9 am and were lucky with the rain stopping when we arrived (by bus) at the gates to MachuPicchu. We climbed MachuPicchu mountain, went to the sun gate and the Inca bridge and walked around between the many old stones and after a short while had spend 6 h in this sight. The only real negative thing to say, you can’t buy food our drinks anywhere and we were starving after 4 h („yeah it’s really beautiful, but I am hungry“ and you are officially not allowed to bring food inside though nobody cares).
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It’s a beautiful place, but why all this fuss about old stones?

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And of course as with all beautiful places, you are never alone :).

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The Inca bridge is to the far right (and closed for tourist because a few years ago one surprising fall down). The bigger wonder: where does it lead to?

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I am hungry! Me too.

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These funny fellows are actually at work. Job title: lawn-mower.

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The amazing thing about this old stones is that they were worked to fit perfectly together and by that stand solid since Inca times.

At 4 pm we decided to head back, missing the stairs (right next to the hotel) and therefore enjoying bend for bend the beautiful nature around us. Though we didn’t felt the spirit of MachuPicchu as many before described to us we really enjoyed the trip, though I still think it’s a bit a rip off.
Around 3 pm the clouds rolled in, giving the sight an even more mysterious look.

Around 3 pm the clouds rolled in, giving the sight an even more mysterious look.

The next day we took the train back and the only thing I can say about it. If you have the time, take the bus, more scenic, a lot cheaper but very slow.
Looks nice, but is just a crowded train without view.

Looks nice, but is just a crowded train without view.

Cusco – a wet intermezzo

After a beautiful bus ride through the Peruvian Andes we arrived in Cusco a late Wendesday afternoon. It was quite an entertaining experience and pretty cheap too. We entered the bus a few minutes after it’s official departure time meaning we already started with an delay. Soon after the First Ladies selling food entered (kind of normal in SA). Then the bus steward started selling natural medicine for 45 min in an unignorable voice level, to give way the more woman selling actually some kind if backed meat that was chopped from its bones directly in the bus. After a while without disturbance men in black entered the bus searching for something, but did not seemed to find what they were looking for.

Our homestay in Cusco was not as nice as living with Bertha, but we anyway had a whole apartment to ourself for the next couple of days. Surprisingly the rainy season finally managed to catch up with us meaning it rained a good 50% of our time in Cusco banning us to our new home for most of the time.

Plaza de Armas in the shine of rainy season.

Plaza de Armas in the shine of rainy season.

So we found a nice place around the corner to get lunch (2 courses for less than 2€ leaving you stuffed for the rest of the day), strolled through the city and it’s markets and learned how to prepare a proper Peruvian „Pisco Sour“ in the „Museo del Pisco“ (it’s a bar not a museum).

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Familiar shaped shoes found on the „Inca market“.

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The rainy weather also comes with a specific temperature range that is quite unfavourable for hanging out in a unheated unisolated apartment.

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But we always could warm us up with high caloric lunch menus (sustainably only served between 12:30-14:30).

We didn’t visited any place of interested probably because we spent alone one day to figure out how to go to MachuPicchu. Originally we wanted to walk the Salcanty trek but after days of rain we were a little discouraged. So we asked several tour operators but including the inflexibility of a tour they were kind of pricy (more than 200$ if you want to spend more than 3h at the sight meaning you have to go by the overpriced train).
So we went for public bus/train as transportation, a cheap hotel to find when we arrive and buying the tickets our self.
The last part going to be the tricky one almost made me give up on MachuPicchu. The office were to by the tickets closes at 4 pm so we headed out a 2 pm. Arrived at the place pointed out by google maps turned out to be far of the actual address (google does not know house numbers). So after good 45 min walk we took a cab back to the correct house number only to find out, that the office was moved close to Plaza de Armas (the place we started at 2 pm). Another cab ride later we actually managed to buy the tickets a few minutes before 4 pm (don’t expect Peruvians to be on time but the officials know when their working day ends.).
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Tom mixing his first peruvian Pisco Sour in El museo del Pisco. I was not quite convinced about the raw egg added to it.

Puno and the floating Uros

Our first stop in Peru was just behind the Bolivian boarder in Puno. I had heard about the floating reed island of the Uros and wanted to visit them.

The floating island also got wet from above that day.

The floating island also got wet from above that day.

They were just a short boat ride away, kind of touristy, but fascinating. You just have to take the evening tour (significantly less tourist) and then imagine, that people lived like that for thousands of years. Anyway, nowadays the also incorporate modern material like corrugated iron for their roofs, but the swimming floor is still made of floating reed roots and carpet and walls of dried reed.
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The floor of wet reed roots and dries reed allowed even for playing football, but basketball was no option.

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But of course the modern world does not stop at the shore, even though I could not make out the electric cables above the water surface.

The other big attraction despite the huge street marked in front of our hostal was the big supermarket, that we found in the city (finally able to stroll through aisles of products after shopping around between piled fruits and vegetables for five weeks).