Traveling Busses in South America

The way to travel around South America are busses! You can fly, but it’s usually only affordable within one country, if at all. Interestingly bus fares and bus standards vary widely between countries even if you only take into account tourist busses.

The most important thing you have to learn is to distinguish the classes. There is standard: the usually uncomfortable cramped busses that you find all over Europe. Then there is semicama: giving you a bit more space for the legs and the possibility to lean back you seat by 140dg. Cama: gives you support for your legs and and seat that leans back 160dg (if you ever wanted to learn how business class in a plane feels, this is quite similar).
And the 180dg: it’s the same as cama but your leg support can be adjusted to 180dg.
Argentina has in general the highest standards with clean busses, working toilets that don’t spill their content on the street. Sometimes they even serve real food (all of it contains in some way ham and cheese) and wine. Anyway, you should ask for the food otherwise you can end up on a 24h journey very very hungry. The downside: they are also the most expensive ones.
Our steward (wearing a suit) on the bus from Bariloche to Mendoza.

Our steward (wearing a suit) on the bus from Bariloche to Mendoza.

When they tell you that you get food in Chile be prepared for orange juice and cookies and that’s it. In Bolivia they make it easy: no food. But here you can buy supplies and even a warm dish at every corner. And if they don’t serve you food in Peru they will let the street vendors in the bus selling everything from cheese, meat (chopped from the bone in the bus), jelly, juice, but no coffee :(.
Trying to get a closet into the bus in Peru.

Trying to get a closet into the bus in Peru.

What you have to cope with, when taking the not very touristic busses are the cultural differences most pronounced in Bolivia, where seats are in general stained, people eating rice and fried chicken from there lap and people using the curtains to clean their hands or even worse their noses. Anyway what we never ended up with (and people transport the weirdest stuff) were living animals, not even a pet.
And against the warnings of the German embassy and the constant lack of seat belts in Bolivia and Peru we only felt insecure once. On our last ride from Cusco to Lima the bus driver tried to get home early. Instead of 22h he only needed 19h, 12h of them in the middle of the night through narrow bends next to steep cliffs through the Andes. I rarely slept a minute on this overnight bus.
We also took the train twice but more about that in the articles about Potosi and MachuPicchu.

Lessons learned about South America

Many funny things we observed in south america don’t differ so much between the countries you will get the whole collection in one rush.

Chile and Argentina, both somewhat influenced by the europeans since a few centuries kind of similar. Both countries have an amazing landscape (we only saw Argentina’s close to the chilean boarder), produce good red wine (Argentina’s is a bit better) and speak a strange version of Spanish.

1. Chilean love sugar, so much that they even sell sugar light in supermarket to reduce calorie consumption.
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2. Chliean love color, especially in yoghurt. However the only seem to use one kind of color. Independent from the flavor all are bright pink.
3. There is no bargaining in Chile, not even on the markets. So you actual never feel cheated, but prices are higher than in the rest of South America.
4. Chilean don’t seem to have a sense of weight. While everybody tries to reduce weight while hiking, they even carry 1.4 kg heavy cookers around.
5. Steak is so popular in Argentina that the only kind of knives in Hostels are actual steak knives. It gave us a hard time to spread the butter on bread.
6. Argentines love their dulce de leche (some weird mix of caramelised milk and sugar) and put it into everything. I don’t like it but since it’s usually very brown I regularly misjudge it as chocolate.

I find it quite significant that the ice cream shop offers two kind of chocolate but four kind of dulce de leche ice cream.

I find it quite significant that the ice cream shop offers two kind of chocolate but four kind of dulce de leche ice cream.

7. Argentina is surprisingly expensive. Knowing about the unofficial dollar blue rate of 12.5 compared to the official 8.7 really saved us some money.
8. Argentines have a great relation to plastic bags. Every single person in the queue in front if me brought a fabric bag to carry their groceries home.
9. Siesta is still written in big letters in Argentina, causing two stupid looking persons in front of a supermarket more than once.
10. This is one for Nanna. Argentines are wild with Fernet, mostly Fernet Branca. They drink it for every occasion and mix it even with coke.
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11. We never figured out for which reason but ham and cheese are really popular ingredients in the Chilean and Argentina cuisine. You get it with the scrambled egg in the plan, on sandwiches, in empenadas, on top of what they call Milanesa (in principle Wiener Schnitzel) or just pure.

Yummy, cheese and ham in all kinds of variations.
12. Chileans knock on toilet doors. What a great habit, than just pushing down the toilet handle.
13. Surprisingly Argentina is the first country that really did something against plastic bags, so most people actually bring fabric bags for shopping. I like!
14. Despite the fact, that coffee is produced in south america they don’t really nurse a coffee culture. Most just dink freeze dried coffee with lots of sugar. but I kind of like the teabag version. Really handy in busses.
IMG_157515. Of course they love soccer and are so proud. Even the screens in underground stations allow you to keep track off the doing of your favourite team.
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Bolivia is so very different form Chile and Argentina. It’s characterised by the Andes (that maybe the european settlers just didn’t bother to cope with) and what they call the andean folk.

15. The andeans are very fond of highly colored sugary jellies which are selled everywhere.
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16. Andeans probably invented shawls for carrying baby’s. Even tough they have a different understanding of how the kid should be carried than Europeans.
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17. 60-70% of the inhabitants are indigenous and many especially women still practice the traditional clothing and hair style (long black braided plaits with some kind of deco).
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18. Quinoa, the superfood of the western world is what have been oats for us. A cereal with a high protein content but nothing special. Because nearly all is exported, nowadays the average Bolivian can’t afford to buy quinoa but is eating rice instead.
19. Working kids, on the streets, in the markets and even in the mines is a sight you have to cope with while traveling here.
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20. Plastic bags are also very famous here. They sell every kind of food in it. Juice to go comes with a straw. Food, like corn with rice and fried chicken is simply eaten directly from the bag with fingers. I even felt reminded of childhood when I found milk in plastic bags in the supermarket.
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Ladies selling snacks and juices to passengers at the bus station.

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21. Sometimes you get the impression time stood still for centuries in this country, when you observe the high technology used to get things done. But hey things like juice presses work and can easily be fixed with a wrench.
22. For what ever reason many Bolivians travel with blankets. Might be because if the constantly cold temperatures in places at 3500-4000m or simple the cheaper version of a sleeping bag.
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23. Bolivians are big fan of whatever pooped grain. On every market you will find several options and bags are sold for cents or in supersize me versions.
Popped corn delivery to a kiosk in Copacabana.

Popped corn delivery to a kiosk in Copacabana.

24. If you ever travel in Bolivian busses or Peruvian boats you should remember what Nr. 1 and Nr. 2 is. Both countries refer to pee whit Nr. 1 and to poo with Nr. 2.
25. Potatoes are vegetables! So when you order a Bolivian dish you will get meat, rice and vegetables (usually remind a lot of French fries).
In many ways the andean live in Peru is a lot like in Bolivia, even though they already know more about tourists (in good and bad ways) and their food is a lot better. But there are a few things we only found in this country.
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26. Chewing coca leaves and drinking coca tea is legal in Chile, Bolivien, Peru and Columbia and an integral part of the andean culture. We also had them due to their supposed effect against altitude symptoms. Hope we don’t get into any drug test soon 😉 (trace amounts of cocaine can be found in urine after chewing coca leaves).
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27. Transportation of nearly everything in busses is very popular. If they can, they even take dressers on board. In that case they couldn’t and had to leave it behind.
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28. I guess the lable „Inca“ equals good quality. At least they put it on everything. By the way Inca Cola was the only softdrink CocaCola could never compete with in Peru. So they simply bought the company.
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29. And if the peruvians can something than thats slides. They are huge and they are everywhere.
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Just the small backyard version.

Mendoza – Bacchus summer residence

The first thing that you recognize when arriving in Mendoza are green trees, bushes and parks. And this after driving for hours through the sand and dry landscape of a desert. Already the Incas used water courses to redirect the river coming from the mountains which were improved and are still used today and thereby creating this oasis.
Something of the green generated by the clever water systems and we were even allowed to try it.

Something of the green generated by the clever water systems and we were even allowed to try it.

These clever water systems in combination with the christianisation by the Spanish also cause Mendozas main attraction. Wine! Numerous wine yards around Mendoza produce some excellent grapes in this region of 300 sunny days a year. A speciality being a wine called Malbec. Originally from France it disappeared in Europe (I never tried it before.) during a wine pest but just flourish in the dry conditions here. It’s of almost black color, with a good amount spicy tannins (Never drink red wine without tannins. It will just result in a headache the next day.) and a flavor a black berries.
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„Never drink wine without tannins“ was the good advice from the lady, that gave us a tasting of the to me unknown Malbec at two different occasions.

After our first night including a free wine tasting in the hostel and half a cow in a restaurant we found our selfs with a bunch of people from the hostel in bus 10/171 on the way to Maipu and it’s many wine yards. Due to some indirectness of the route it took much longer than expected and at a certain point the driver just ordered us out of the bus recommending to walk the rest (Bus 10/172 would have been the direct one but surely less scenic).
Not the best bikes, but decent cheap and including a small bottle of water (Where is the wine?).

Not the best bikes, but decent cheap and including a small bottle of water (Where is the wine?).

We grabbed some bikes from one of the renting shops and headed of to the first wine yard. Here we met the girl from our tasting the night before, now not only explaining the difference between red and white wine but also how to distinguish different wine plants, how the wine is produced and what is so special about Malbec (very sensitive to bad wheather) and she let us taste their premium wine that is only sold in Argentina and of course Germany.
You can already smell the difference on the barrel or just smell the difference of one to another barrel.

You can already smell the difference on the barrel or just smell the difference of one to another barrel.

These premium wines really were the best of the day and somebody is selling them somewhere in Germany!

These premium wines really were the best of the day and somebody is selling them somewhere in Germany!

After this we went to two more wine yards and one bodega ending up with more than a bottle each in our bloodstream.
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Spirtis (or alcohol blood level) were getting high im bodegas and vineyards.

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People working hard to bottle the wine.

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People working not that hard to unbottle them again.

Accidents can not be excluded under such circumstance but luckily not more than a big scratch resulted from the fall in the ditch. Since spirits were already high and the day still young nobody put a veto to dinner and more wine bottles, so the next day was completely devoted to recovery.
How smart. Tasting different wines from the same yard over for each other. Bt don't mess with the glasses, because the drue is indicated in the paper below.

How smart. Tasting different wines from the same yard over for each other. But don’t mess with the glasses, because the grape is indicated in the paper below.

Bariloche or the tiny Switzerland of Nazi Germans

We can’t deny it. After the Second World War many Germans flew to South America especially Argentina and in Bariloche you find many of their traces mingled into the argentine culture. Cute little „Spitzdachhäuser“, German schools teaching in Spanish, German bakeries that sell at least one kind of integral bread, breweries offering deals including the argentine version of pizza with loads of cheese, chocolate manufactures producing pralines filled with dulce de leche and even the landscape resembles some Swiss features tough the network of lakes and hills is much more impressive than anything I have seen in Europe.
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First thing is Bariloche: having a bear and pizza. Second thing in Bariloche: not feeling you are in Argentina if it weren’t for the loud argentine band in the background.

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I was so happy, when we entered this chocolate store and even got a sample for free until I bit it and my mouth filled with this caramelised milk stuff „dulce de leche“.

Here we finally got what we came for to Argentina: not the beautiful landscape or the argentine culture, no we came for steak and wine. The recommended restaurant is really popular we Israelis meaning you get huge amounts for a reasonable price but you have to show up early. We came 20 min before the place opened and squeezed in just before a group if 22 Israelis. And than came the difficult part of what to chose. Bife de lomo turned out to be 4 cm thick and tender steaks and the normal argentine portion of 500g sufficient to make our stomachs just about to burst.
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Just cut it very thick and add a bit of salt and then over on the BBQ.

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We estimated at least one cow went over this BBQ per night.

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Tom in great expectations!

To make up for the unreasonable protein intake we went for a bike tour in the National Park the next day. We rented bikes at km 18.6 (kind of an unusual address) which turned out to be good mountain bikes that came in handy on the hilly road (flat was not existent). The views on the lakes are worth every km and you can visit a lot of side tracks, so we actually 5.5 h to cover the 25 km of the circuit.

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I guess, thats why they call it the lake district.

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The most famous and probably also the most expensive Hotel of Argentina lays in this Nationalpark. And don’t tell me, that you are bot thinking of Switzerland in this moment.

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Here you also find the famous red trees also called „llao-llao“?

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The best view of the day came 3 km before the finishing line.

El Chalten – the little sister of Torres del Paine

When we finished Torres del Paine both of is were relatively done with hiking and carrying around heavy backpacks. Unfortunately everybody told us to stop by El Chalten in Argentina for some more hiking. „It’s really beautyfull.“ So we did.

Since we were also a little tired of booking ahead we arrived there not knowing were to stay. The tourist information here is very helpful and pointed out the hostels that had some free space (it weren’t many). We ended up in a cheap but a little creepy place surrounded by french (whatever it is about them and adventure holidays), the owner only spoke Spanish but was really nice tough. We spent two days hiking up the steep hills around El Chalten Cerro Torres and the dominating Frits Roy always in the corner of our eyes. The landscape here is really beautiful but not that different from Torres del Paine.
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The biggest lake in the area spans over 17 km and is a little eye catcher on top of the mountain.

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The mountain range around El Chalten and it’s wooden explanation, including „El Torre“, „Fritz Roy“ and „El Tomasz“ also known as „Cerro Knubbel“.

The famous Fritz Roy, sunning on this beautiful day in February.

The famous Fritz Roy, sunning on this beautiful day in February.

El Chalten on an early sunny morning (just reminded us that we forgot to bring the sun creme).

El Chalten itself was only founded by Argentina a few decades ago to claim the area from Chile. Only the attractive landscape around drawing the tourists here provide a livelihood, so you can guess what’s dominating the place: Hostels, restaurants, tour agencies, kiosks and panaderias selling empenadas (dough moons filled with meat, vegetables or ham and cheese).

El Chalten on an early sunny morning (just reminded us that we forgot to bring the sun creme).

El Chalten on an early sunny morning (just reminded us that we forgot to bring the sun creme).

Somehow we expected Argentina to be cheaper than Chile (at least that’s what everybody keeps claiming). It isn’t. Especially when you don’t bring Euro or USD. Argentina has an extremely high inflation and since 2011 a law prohibits the investment of money in foreign currency. Therefore everybody here wants to keep there savings in USD. You are able to change USD for a 30% higher rate than the official rate which really saves a lot of money. Luckily somebody already told us in Santiago ;).