With Tom, Tommy, and the Tomichis in Tomsk

One of the reasons "many" tourist come to Tomsk are the numerous wooden houses in different states of construction and reconstruction.

One of the reasons „many“ tourist come to Tomsk are the numerous wooden houses in different states of construction and reconstruction.

I read somewhere in the internet that Tomsk recently is overflowing with Tourist. Wherever they are, they were not in our Hostel. Unfortunately they didn’t had a map of Tomsk and a not working WiFi, so we headed out into the streets of Tomsk to find the tourist office by chance. We walked along the lively Lenina Street and up the popular Resurrection hill, but no Info to be seen. So we asked a passenger and got a surprisingly „Do you speak English? Yes, a little“. Unfortunately he neither know whether there was a Tourist information in Tomsk (We did not find it until the end of our stay.) He gave us some good recommendations what to see and the next day we enjoyed a relaxed stroll through the city including a ride in a very shaky Tram (nearly jumping off the tracks in each corner) and a overfilled Gas-Bus (equipped with six huge Gasbottles being able two blow away the bus including it’s 50 passengers).
Public transport in Tomsk. At least the reduce a little the air pollution in this city.

Public transport in Tomsk. At least the reduce a little the air pollution in this city.

Enjoyed pelmenis (the Russian tortellini) and tschebrenok (the same stuff in a different shape, but fried), blinis (pane cakes) filled with meat and fish or caramelised milk (very delicious), and the typical „light beer“. That’s actually not light in alcohol but light in treatment, meaning it was neither filtered nor pasteurized. Very good.
Whenever you are in Russia and find taps in a supermarket go for it, the beer is really good.

Whenever you are in Russia and find taps in a supermarket go for it, the beer is really good.

The next day we headed out to explore Tomsk behind its city boarders. We hoped for some Taiga like nature (it looked very green in google maps).
We hope to see a lot of this (the picture behind us was not nearly as scenic.)

We hoped to see a lot of this (the picture behind us was not nearly as scenic.)

We found indeed a green area that was also extensively used by the Tomichi for recreation. Many people were building dachas, biking, fishing and swimming in the Tom and playing loud electric music.
Tomichi fishing in the Tom, while people on the other side of the river were playing loud electronic music.

Tomichi fishing in the Tom, while people on the other side of the river were playing loud electronic music.

Aside from that we found the people living here exceptional friendly and helpful. Despite the fact, that we could only communicate on a substantive level with the staff in our hostel they really made us make welcome and feel us at home, people in the streets helped us finding our way and they try to make the environment looking nicely also with limited tools.
Little garden in front of a concrete tower-block.

Little garden in front of a concrete tower-block.

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Many of the older people still wear the traditional clothing that we expect from russian grandmas.

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Tomichis obviously do not only love the city but also each other, even though they overdue it sometimes a little.

Lessons learned about Russia

1. Blini are eaten with everything exept cheese.

Blini are eaten with jam, meat, caramelised milk ..., but no cheese. And tea is drunken with lots of sugar.

Blini are eaten with jam, meat, caramelised milk …, but no cheese. And tea is drunken with lots of sugar.

2. Russians know how to use cable to decorate their capital. It looks like Spider came to visit.

Cables, there are everywhere, covering house walls, connecting lamps and busses or just dangling down the pole.

Cables, there are everywhere, covering house walls, connecting lamps and busses or just dangling down the pole.

3. Russians are very pragmatic. Write the words as they are spoken and nobody gets confused with pronunciation e.g. Cheppi Mil.
4. During summer not only plants, but also streets are watered to cool down the atmosphere.
5. Salary in Russia must be incredible cheap. Where ever you go there are usually more employees than customer, in supermarkets, cafés or the train station.
6. Russians are big fans of green and black tea. You get in great quality everywhere for a few rubles. But a normal coffee is hard to find outside the modern coffee shops. Freeze dried coffee powder is general standard in hostels, trains and other small bistros.
7. Russian people have a different concept of recreation areas. There city parks usually equal a faded version of a Tivoli sprinkled into a area of trees and concrete paths. People are sitting on benches instead of the grass areas and everybody is eating icecreme.

The concept of a russian recreation area is somewhat different (Tomsk City Park).

The concept of a russian recreation area is somewhat different (Tomsk City Park).

8. Public traffic is as pragmatic as the Russians them self. The are usually constructed once and used until they fall apart. You pay a fixed price to the driver independent of the length of your journey directly to the chauffeur. If the vehicle is packed, you just hand the money to another passenger, who hands it further in the direction of the driver. The same happens with the change.

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I am pretty sure maintenance of tram trams is even less frequent than in Berlin.

 

I did not recognised that I am in the way while taking a picture.

I did not recognised that I am in the way while taking a picture.

9. In Russia exist a lot of untouched nature, so there is no need to take care about environment protection. Plastic bottles are just thrown away, when empty and a catalyst in cars are seldom.

On example of many that we found aside from tourist tracks.

On example of many that we found aside from tourist tracks.

10. The balcony is a part if the apartment that can be individualized and probably has to, giving the old Plattenbau a colorful touch.

The variety of balconies in Russia is unique.

The variety of balconies in Russia is unique.


11. If you can’t find your hostel at the stated address, walk to the back door and have a look at the balconies. Usually they pin up a poster to indicate which bell you approximately need to use to get inside. 
12. Shops are open until late in the night if you need some extra beer or vodka, but you don’t need to try to find a bakery that opens before 9am.
13. Showers are called banja (sauna) in Russia. Nearly every house in a village has a banja but non has a shower. Usually it is a small wooden room separated in two with a oven in the middle. The oven heats a bowl with water in the front room and the whole back room (the actual sauna). You go into the banja, sweat, and hit yourself or your partner with birch branches. Then you go back to the front room soap your self, mix the hot with cold water in a second bowl and „shower“. Thereafter you can hang out in the yard, cool down an watch the stars.
14. Russian people smile inversely. Since our first day we wondered why all the Russians seem so grumpy and act awkwardly when we tried to be friendly. On our last stop in Ulan-Ude we found the Din A4 long explanation pinned on the hostel wall. Russian people don’t smile to be polite, but to show honest sympathy to the people they know. The lady in the supermarket does not smile, because she does not know you and if you smile at her she will think that you are for some reason laughing about her.

Russian superlatives – from Irkutsk to Olchon to Ulan-Ude

If the world would run out of drinking water tomorrow, lake Baikal could supply the whole humanity for the next 40 years. (I read it somewhere, so better double check before you reference to me.)

We started from Tomsk around midnight by a so called elektrischka that turned out to be a pretty old regional train stopping 20 times in the middle of nowhere in our way to taiga. Who thinks taiga means deserted place never spend 4h in the middle of the night in its train station.  It’s pretty crowed with people waiting for trains to different directions.
A very different way to install a european style toilet the russian way.

A very different way to install a european style toilet the russian way.

The rather sleepless start of our journey caused that we again spent 80% of our time in the Transib sleeping. The other 20% we chatted with some Spanish guys (finally some English speaking people).
After we finally found the hostel in Irkutsk, we managed to arrange us two sleeping mattresses, a tent for rent (we actually never got it) and a bus going to Olchon island at 8:45 the next morning. The bus arrived at 9:45 and we spent the next hour driving to another hostel close by to pick up the last passengers filling the minibus efficiently and resulting in the bondage of my backpack on the roof of the bus. As badly as our driver knows the streets of Irkutsk as badly does he know how to drive a bus safely and comfortable. I guess his motto is why driving 100 km/h when you can drive 140 km/h, ignoring rules about safety distance, shaking leftover milk to butter (road conditions were not the best either) and resulting in some very green Spanish people. Surprisingly my backpack was still on the roof, when we arrived.
Our very impatient, disoriented, downward smiling bus driver and his bus.

Our very impatient, disoriented, downward smiling bus driver and his bus.

When we arrived at the ferry we got a first warning that Olchon island will not be as lonely as we anticipated. The queue continued for several hundred meter and we waited three hours to cross the 500 m Baikal lake.
Waiting for the ferry can get a little time consuming.

Waiting for the ferry can get a little time consuming.

The long waiting time had the big advantage that our russian companions got enough whiskey and rum to become talkative.
Our new russian friends, Lara and me.

Our new russian friends, Lara and me.

We decide to stay in Nikita’s Homestay, the most popular one on the islan and run by a former table tennis profi, who made Olchon accessible for traveler. It was a little more expensive but considering the twin room, a hot shower, table tennis opportunities and numerous Blinis for breakfast you got plenty value for your money.
Nikitas homestay, a very cosy place to meet people and eat pancakes.

Nikitas homestay, a very cosy place to meet people and eat pancakes.

During our time on Olchon we got lost in the woods on our search of the other side of the island, made a trip to the „north cap“ in a Bread, and walked the sandy beaches finding russian numerous banjas and rare fresh water seals. We also took a swim in the lake, which is prolonging your life by five years, I heard rumors. However, the island is packed with Russians and Backpackers during summer time, so I would definitely recommend to get here in off season if you only come for the nature.
Chuschir, a very remot place in Siberia, if you exclude all the people coming during summer time.

Chuschir, a very remot place in Siberia, if you exclude all the people coming during summer time.

Olchon woods criss-crossed by sandy paths.

Olchon woods criss-crossed by sandy paths.

Olchon is also a an area of  shamanic spirits, we heard.

Olchon is also a an area of shamanic spirits, we heard.

Frequent companion on the sandy paths of Chuschir are the cows, making the place a little indian like.

Frequent companion on the sandy paths of Chuschir are the cows, making the place a little indian like.

Olchon sunset, enjoyable 300 days a year due to the special clime on the island.

Olchon sunset, enjoyable 300 days a year due to the special clime on the island.

Tom and Tommy watching the sunset.

Tom and Tommy watching the sunset.

Brot

Several „breads“ as russian call the off road cars are making the trip to the north cap each day.

Oceanic lake

It actually feels like being on the sea, except that you are able to drink the water.

NorthCap

Happy greetings from the north cap from Tom.

Fish soup

The north cap trip also included fish soup from the typical Omul prepared by a bus driver in a bucket. Jummy

Tree

Despite the enormous amount of fresh water in the lake, a great part of the island consist of steppe.

We spontaneously decided not to go back to Irkutsk but to take the ferry to Ust-Bagasin. The village on the eastern shores if the Baikal lake. We were not the only ones taking this trip and found us together with 100 other passengers and their backpacks, suitcases and bikes at the beach waiting for the boat.
How needs a harbour, we had a beach and a ladder. Only the bike got a bit in trouble getting his bike on the boat.

How needs a harbour, we had a beach and a ladder. Only the bike got a bit in trouble getting his bike on the boat.

Ust-Bagasin

Arrived in Ust-Bagusin, we actually did neither find a passenger friendly harbour.

Arrived in Ust-Bagasin together with another German backpacker the group leader of a German travel group help us finding a bed (space for the sleeping bag) for the night. Our landlord however was the most grumpy person we met in Russia and charged us a pretty nice price. Therefore we ended up for the first in  a Russian banja (sauna) because non of the houses in a Russian village has a shower, but all have a banja.
She also ordered a place in the Marschrutka to Ulan-Ude for the next day for us. We wouldn’t have found it on our own, since there is no Bus station in Ust-Bagasin and you are supposed to call the bus company to pick you up in front of your house.
Waiting for the Marschrutka in Ust-Bagusin.

Waiting for the Marschrutka in Ust-Bagusin.

The next day we drove knee to knee with 12 russians, non working safety belts and ventilation in a mini-van to Ulan-Ude.
We had plans to go from here to Ulan Bator the next day, but we did not expect this route to be that popular. All train and Bus tickets were sold out and we were not up for hitch hiking. Instead we spend three nights in three different hostel (they were full as well), saw the most impressive fountain and the weirdest Lenin monument in whole Russia, met many nice people, ate some vegetables (Mongolia is supposed to be just meat and dairy products) and bought a cheap tent.
Evil twins.

Evil twins.